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Monitor 4 International civil-society alliance assesses reality of aid | Why African birth rates remain high | Reporters without Borders condemn violence against journalists | World Bank abandons “homo economi- cus” | Nowadays: Many brides are much too young in Bangladesh | Imprint | New Soil Atlas documents global trends Focus: Fabrics, clothes and fashion Mirna Lilian Ramírez Pérez: Export-oriented garment factories do not help young women to escape from poverty in Guatemala 14 Gerd Müller: The Textiles Partnership will improve social and environmental standards 18 Interview with Nazma Akter: Bangladesh’s labour law makes sense and must finally be enforced 20 Gisela Burckhardt: High prices do not mean decent work 23 Anup Kumar Singh: What Fairtrade International is doing for smallholder cotton farmers in Africa and India 26 Interview with Monique Voorneman: Kuyichi Jeans are made according to social and environmental standards 29 Marina Chahboune: Innovative eco-fibres could become alternatives to cotton 32 Tribune Gibson Masumbu, Martin Ostermeier and Kacana Sipangule: Why “decent work” is still a huge challenge in Zambia 34 Henning Melber: Don’t expect too much from middle classes as drivers of development 36 Floreana Miesen: Portrait of a young Senegalese man who wants to go to Europe and is stuck in Tangier 38 Debate 40 Interview with Kai Ambos, a law professor and judge, on the Palestine Territories’ accession to the International Criminal Court | Letter | Comments on the response to the terror attacks in Paris and the economic impact of Ebola in Africa Exaggerated hopes Many experts expect rising middle classes to drive development. Henning Melber, director emeritus of Sweden’s Dag Hammarskjöld Foundation, is not convinced. Page 36 Decent work Many governments have adopted policies to improve labour conditions. The Zambian govern- ment is among those that want their country to live up to multilateral definitions for “decent work”. In view of a huge informal sector and wide-spread underemployment, the challenges are daunting however, write economists Gibson Masumbu, Martin Ostermeier and Kacana Sipangule. Page 34 Clashes in civilisations It would be a terrible mistake to read the terror attacks on the magazine Charlie Hebdo and a Jew- ish supermarket in Paris as some kind of “clash of civilisations”. What we are witnessing are clashes within civilisations, argues Hans Dembowski of D+C/E+Z. Page 42 Tribune Debate Böthling/Photographypicture-alliance/dpa D+C Vol.42.2015:2 3 D+C 2 2015 In German in E+Z Entwicklung und Zusammenarbeit. Both language versions at D+C 22015 In German in E+Z